Hi, i'm new on your forum. I have Asus GL502VT-FY34T notebook. I updated the bios from version 300 to 303. The version 303 Bios has some bugs. Some people have that. Pc don't boot with m2 sata ssd. So i tried M2 Pci ssd and it worked but when i play a game, system shut down. I couldn't turn on it. Then, i tried Ctrl + Home combination with AMIBOOT.ROM in a usb disk. While erasing old BIOS (%90), system was frozen and i shut down. So i bricked my motherboard.

I bought Ch341a programmer. I downloaded old stable bios firmware (GL502VT-AS.300 from Asus offical web site) then used Cap2Bin for renaming and programmed it using Ch341 Programmer. Everything was ok but now, notebook won't turn on. Power light and capslock light are flashing one time. Cmos resetting not working.

I read almost all topics but i can't fix it. I don't have original bios backup file. I attached some files.

read.rom (8 mb) : After erase and reflash - backup file
GL502VT-AS.300 : Old Bios binary file from Asus

Can someone help me? Sorry for my so bad English.

Bios Chip: Winbond 25Q64FVSIQ

@lycoll - What do you mean here >> I downloaded old stable bios firmware (GL502VT-AS.300 from Asus offical web site) then used Cap2Bin for renaming and programmed it using Ch341 Programmer. Everything was ok but now, notebook won't turn on
How was everything OK? Did it boot after you programmed in BIOS? I assume not, since this is only partial BIOS, missing FD and ME region, BIOS from Asus is only BIOS region (6MB out of 8MB total BIOS)

Do you have dump of chip before you did ANYTHING at all with programmer? Do you have ANY previous BIOS backup, could be from ANY program or method, from before you AMIBOOT.ROM? If yes, send me these
Also, please repackage above attached file, I do not need stock BIOS included, already have it and don't want to waste bandwidth to download it again (I'm on limited internet) - thanks
And actually, never mind, if "read.rom" is from after you programmed in BIOS from Asus with programmer, I do not need this either, it would be 100% stock BIOS region over first 6MB of BIOS - so waste to download as well

If you do not have any previous BIOS backup from before you did all this, then original UUID is lost forever, and original BIOS serial (we can rebuild both, but UUID will be 100% new and BIOS serial will be 3-4 characters newly created)
If this system has Ethernet port, please show me images of ALL stickers on the back of case, on the board, on the inside of case, also be sure to look ON the memory slots, and remove memory and look under too.

For W25Q64FV you need to use software 1.30 or 1.34 and W 25Q64BV ID when writing with programmer, otherwise writes will fail. Other programs may work, like ASProgrammer, not sure, I am only referring to general CH341A software
If you need 1.30/1.34 they are included in this package - http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil...213094641136166

Thank you for your answer! I understand what you mean.

I don't have dump before AMIBOOT.ROM or doing anything with programmer =( Can i find original UUID from my Windows 10 installed ssd? (i can put it different computer)

I have ethernet port and will send my motherboard pictures to you.

Zitat von Lost_N_BIOS im Beitrag #2

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For W25Q64FV you need to use software 1.30 or 1.34 and W 25Q64BV ID when writing with programmer, otherwise writes will fail. Other programs may work, like ASProgrammer, not sure, I am only referring to general CH341A softwareIf you need 1.30/1.34 they are included in this package - http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil...213094641136166

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@lycoll - So no previous BIOS backup, EVER, with any program or method? If not, then as I mentioned above, we'll have to make new UUID and partial serial. No, UUID is not in windows, anytime you look at it in windows it's pulled from the BIOS DMI area.
Thanks for images, I will make you new 300 BIOS to program back in and fix system You're welcome too, and thank you as well
* Edit - Can you confirm, look at the wireless card itself, and tell me if that MAC ID as shown on sticker/box (Starts with 4485), is the WIFI MAC ID. I think it is, and other one starting with 3497 would be Ethernet MAC ID

@Lost_N_BIOS
Unfortunately, i don't have any previous backup

I looked at the wireless card. Yes, you are right.
4485-> Wireless Mac id,
3497-> Ethernet Mac id

I sent my wireless card photo to you.

@lycoll - Here, please program in as mentioned above, using 1.30 or 1.34 and BV ID - Erase, then black check, then open file and write/verify
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil...762563158893842

OH MY GOD! It's working !

Edit: I got blue screen and shut down it. Now, only black screen and won't boot. I will try reprogram the bios.

@lycoll - Be sure to enter BIOS and load optimal defaults, then reboot back to BIOS and make all other changes you want, before going to windows

Nice to see system back alive again

If you continue to have issues, see if it will stay running in BIOS only, if so then you may have a HDD/SSD issue. To confirm this, before reprogramming the BIOS, test booting to BIOS with HDD/SSD removed.

When i remove the ssd, pc won't turn on. Only indicator lights on.

If i plug the ssd (os installed), pc turning on but green light blinking (power led, power button led and capslock led are solid) and pc won't boot. I can't understand why my laptop booted succesfully when programmed at
time.

Now, reprogramed but everything as same. I'm about to go crazy.

System should boot without issue with HDD removed, it would either show no boot device on screen, or boot to BIOS etc. Sounds like you maybe have some cable loose or disconnected when putting back together.
BIOS Only needs programmed once, BSOD would not have messed up the BIOS. So if you erased it, and programed again, leave it at that and check all other things, reconnect it all again etc.

Thank you so so so much for your helps. I think the notebook has hardware failure. I tried everything, but nothing fix that.

Again, thank you for everything and nice to met you.

@lycoll - Sorry to hear!! Are you sure, did you take all apart again and put back together, to make sure all ribbon cables in OK and no loose screws or other metal shorting anything?
Since you mentioned without HDD/SSD it wont power on, that is strange, but, can you test with another disk in it's place, or a SATA disk instead if original one was M2?

Did you test with external monitor connected? if not, try, in case monitor or graphics card is going bad, or broke connection etc, in this state external graphics should run OK from the CPU directly.

You're welcome, but sorry it's not fixed now but only for a second