This time I am definitely signing off, since you clearly don't want to learn. We have told you (Fernando and I) that you don't have a RAID hardware controller, but you continue with nagging about something that you think you saw. I already told you that Asus started with a template when building the BIOS and locked the unsupported features, but you again and again come with silly questions. I am truly sorry that I have unlocked your BIOS and have made a promise to myself to never do this again until the owner proves himself worthy and capable of handling all the features. Now I have to go even further and take screenshots of public datasheets, better yet, to highlight some portion. I don't think I can do any better than this:



If you think Intel has locked the feature, you are free to investigate. If you find ANY locking code and you are capable of reversing it, you are more than welcome to share this and help users with the same chipset. But even if you do all this, what do you expect from running a single SSD in RAID, when the OROM/SataDriver was designed just for this task - RAID, thus the (inner) name?

I already told you that you got better than average results and your real-life tests prove that you have good overall speed. But you still expect some magical values, like the SSD should just flush the data from one side to another, when in fact there are multiple variables involved: SSD hardware, SSD firmware, Intel controller, AHCI driver, OS copying process, MFT writings, antivirus etc. I had hoped it wouldn't come to this, but this is the plain truth: if you want better results/features, then buy a better hardware. As simple as that!

I won't even parse the rest of the message and I'm not interested anymore. Signed off and moving on.

@Lordkag

I understand I got on your bad side with my pointless obsession... I regret having pressed the RAID issue so much... Lordkag, I was wondering if you wouldn't mind clearing some doubts that I have come across... I have looked everywhere and I have reached a dead end... I decided to do a deeper and careful inspection of my BIOS... Just to understand it better... How it's compiled and features... I found something that I overlooked using UBU when I had updated the BIOS... I didn't notice it ONLY because the EFI GOP Driver GUID comes up for 1 second when you start UBU... Please bear with me... It may be nothing but I think it explains one of my issues... Now the GUID that pops up is for Sandy Bridge " GUID 8D59EBC8-" I managed to capture it

Why is the Ivy Bridge GOP Driver .EFI Module not detected???

Zitat von lordkag im Beitrag #65

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@@JSebastian

By reading some of the leaked source code, I managed to locate the locking code, in the form of a boolean array. Just replace the Setup utility with the file attached, like you did with "UEFI Boot" option. This will only unhide the Chipset tab (also kept UEFI Boot visible), so you should still use AMIBCP to unlock its sub-nodes.


The high temps are likely caused by dust accumulating in the cooling system, in the heat sink. The other possibility is that some capacitors are failing. For the first problem you have two solutions:
- first one is to disassemble the laptop and re-paste with a good quality thermal paste, clean every bit of dust around the fans and from the heat sink.
- a second and only a temporarily one is to blow compressed air from outside the heat sink. The air should again flow naturally, but the dust will remain in the system and will eventually do more damage.

There is no difference between the compressed ffs and the other file I provided, except the compression. The compressed one was provided in case you needed some extra space, but it is not worth it. There is plenty of free space and it is better to avoid any compression errors.

A big rule of thumb: don't use one software to measure things and avoid taking the result for granted. Use CPU-Z, GPU-Z, AIDA64, HWiNFO, ThrottleStop etc... If they all report the same thing, then you need to search for solutions. The high temps can determine the CPU throttling, thus causing performance drop and lower frequencies. Run some tests and check ThrottleStop logs. Run a game and check the clocks with GPU-Z or GPU Caps Viewer; run a H.264 video with LAVFilters set to every hardware decoding possible (all but CUVID) and check the clocks. Only then can you conclude that there is a problem.

What you see as 5V is probably the line to CPU, not the real consumption. Use the above softwares to determine this.

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Zitat von @JSebastian im Beitrag #76

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@lordkag
Hey I have a huge problem!!! I think I bricked my laptop!!! Here's how it happened... I entered the BIOS only to enable CSM and I set SATA port 2 (ATAPI TSST-DVDRW) speed to "Gen2" which does support from what I've researched... I also Disabled "Enable PCH to aggressively use LPM" for the SATA Configuration section... That's IT!!! I DIDN'T TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE!!! I never even Unlocked the Thermal node & I decided to follow your advice by staying away from any Thermal related settings... Now when I press the Power Button, the LEDs flash on and the DVDRW powers up... Immediately my laptop turns off!!! There's no POST... No Asus Logo... NOTHING!!! I tried removing the CMOS battery for about 5 minutes and also holding down the Power Button for a long time... And nothing worked... Now when I plug in the Power Cord the Battery LED doesn't turn on... How bad is the damage??? Could it be that I just shorted out the power supply? Or something that can be fixed???

UPDATE!!! I HAD COMPLETELY FORGOTTEN ABOUT THE "CTRL + HOME" METHOD... I HAD BACKED UP THE ORIGINAL K55A.BIN ALONG WITH EACH MODDED BIOS FILES ON A USB STICK... AND I SUCCESSFULLY RECOVERED THE BIOS!!!! I WAS FREAKING OUT!!!! I JUST NOW RE-FLASHED AND WAS ABLE TO BOOT MY WIN8 OEM HDD... THAT WAS A CLOSE CALL!!!!

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Hello, I'll help y the best I can, ok... One question... What is your exact K55 model??? I.e "K55-???-???"

Asus K55A-SX224 ty.

You see the issue is that my factory UEFI/BIOS .BIN file that worked for me by backing it up to a USB stick won't work for your version of the K55A... I recommend trying to use the BIOS Recovery method I mentioned using the HOME key first... That will force BIOS to load Factory Installed BIOS File from EFI or Restore partition...