Zitat von ket im Beitrag #610

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Inadequate fans will have a dramatic effect on the cooling capacity of the AIO. High CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) is not the same as a high static pressure. For use with rads the higher the static pressure the better. That strange rattle you mention is a sign the pump bearings are / have worn out if ever I heard it as well. Regards the fan layout of your system if it were me the front and rear fans I would make intake fans, this would allow you to remove the fans over the VRMs. I'd also flip the PSU "upside down" as it would then allow it to benefit from a constant fresh supply of air in the case as well as having the PSU fan double as an exhaust fan. That setup would allow you to remove the fan next to the PSU as well. If you haven't already I would also mount the AIO rad fans on the underside so they are directly blowing over the AIO rad this will give the benefit of a continuous fresh air supply from the rear intake fan while also having the advantage of the AIO rad fans directly blowing over the rad and immediately exhausting any heat while the AIO rad fans would also double as two more exhaust fans for any heat within the system that makes it up that far. I'll attach a pic in case what I'm saying there isn't totally clear.

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Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #614

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He also needs to make sure the thermal paste is sufficient enough and is good quality stuff, the last time i put my other machine together i used cheap halnziye thermal paste and it just evaporated entirely!

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Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #609

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Is there anyway you can check the pump block for blockages on the cpu cooling plate? (fins) that cooler should be a massive improvement over the stock cooler, can these be re-filled? if the standard boxed cooler hits 3.75GHz yours should easily hit over 4GHz, im seeing a lot of people online changing the rads on these to a 3x120 after having a quick browse.

but even with a 2x120 rad they have over twice the cooling surface of the boxed cooler they should perform pretty good. have you tried push/pull fans?

if the radiator is getting hot its got a coolant restriction/slight blockage somewhere

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #616

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I just mentioned the rattle because it was in the video, but mine doesn't have the rattle. It just produces the same humming noise when it is in performance mode.

Unless I am mistaken, I believe the fans that come standard are SP120 fans. The highest static pressure that I see for SP120 fans on the corsair website is 3.1mmH20, whereas the ML120 fans can supposedly go up to 4.2mmH20, so I assume they shouldn't hinder the cooling performance.

From what information I could find when I decided on the fan layout, was that pull vs push gives similar thermal performance (push is slightly better maybe), but for the purpose of easier cleaning of the radiator, I decided on pull. I did use electrical tape to seal the gaps between the fans and the radiator so that it pulls the most amount of air through the radiator. I also don't have dust filters on the rear fan, which is why I left it as an exhaust. Once I get the new motherboard, I can probably get rid of the VRM cooler. I am not sure the PSU fan ever turns on (extremely little dust on the air filter below the PSU), so currently I assume that, because heat rises, that the heat is causing it to pull air through the bottom dust filter. If I turn it around, I'd have to rely on there being enough of a positive pressure in the case for air to flow downward through the PSU. I would then probably have to try and seal the area where the 5.25 inch drive cage was to make that more likely.

I value your advice. I will look into various layouts when I install the new motherboard and have to anyway take apart parts of the system. It is a bit confusing though, since it is sometimes difficult to distinguish between facts and opinions, so I had to go with what made sense to me and what I could do with my case.

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Yes but with push pull both the fans are running at less than half the speed making the whole system silent, and getting the heat away from the rad much quicker

having just "pull" is a waste of time as the fan has to be set nearly full speed to drag the hot air out of the radiator, no matter what system ive ever built i have always done push/pull simply because of noise and i always got cooler temps, and ive always run them at 7v, you can get 7v from any power supply if you dont have a fan controller, +12v - -5v = +7v simply connect to red and yellow (or both ends) of a 4 pin molex plug.

remember heat rises it doesnt go downwards, so any case fan at the bottom of a case should be pushing inwards not out, but if you do this make sure there are no restrictions in the fan grill desgn, ie: MESH, that stuff will make your fans sound like a rocket and block inward airflow, cut it out with a dremel and fit a simple wire fan grill, they are the best. i dont know why they use this horrible mesh shit it destroys airflow literally. pcs are easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner set on blow.

Any case that doesnt have fans on top is a waste of money unless you mod it yourself, to get hot air out the back the fan has to work twice as hard, 1 fan on the top pulling out will do a better job than two on the back

Been using the GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI with my Ryzen 1600x since it launched (the board, not the 1600x :D).

Any love it can get, it needs, ive posted in the Gigabyte "forum" and put in tickets... deaf ears...

I keep going through modules and sending update requests when they are out of date :D supposed im evil...

Saw the GA-AB350N-Gaming mentioned once but didn't see any reply regarding.


No worries if its not worthy of your love :P

Zitat von ket im Beitrag #617

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There is nothing that is a certainty when it comes to case airflow what works best for one may not for another. My suggestions are based on a lot of different configurations I've tried even with knowledge in thermodynamics theres still a lot you need to simply try to see which scenario works best in your specific conditions and almost always the best solution is not something you will find in a textbook. ;o) As is the case for me I've customised everything in my system down to the smallest detail the benefit is I have a modular system I can move around easily while its almost as quiet as a full water system (literally the loudest fan is a 120mm rear intake which in and of itself is still whisper quiet) without the inconvenience of extremely high maintenance requirements of a full water loop or the inability to be able to move the system without draining everything while still maintaining temps that are well within acceptable levels (eg; while gaming I never see my CPU over 40c or my GPU over 60c). Regards push vs pull in every test I have ran I always found pull to be inferior to push on average anywhere between 2c and 7c. The most useless configuration is setting something up to have both push and pull configurations often I've found that component only dropped in temp by a very small amount while noise levels doubled. If you are fortunate enough to have a case where you can mount a 240mm rad above and "outside" of the case then you might want to try a push and pull configuration as it'll have the most benefit by being able to more quickly get exhausting hot air up and away from the system itself. That might not be the best explanation its something much easir shown in a diagram.

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Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #618

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Yes but with push pull both the fans are running at less than half the speed making the whole system silent, and getting the heat away from the rad much quicker

having just "pull" is a waste of time as the fan has to be set nearly full speed to drag the hot air out of the radiator, no matter what system ive ever built i have always done push/pull simply because of noise and i always got cooler temps, and ive always run them at 7v, you can get 7v from any power supply if you dont have a fan controller, +12v - -5v = +7v simply connect to red and yellow (or both ends) of a 4 pin molex plug.

remember heat rises it doesnt go downwards, so any case fan at the bottom of a case should be pushing inwards not out, but if you do this make sure there are no restrictions in the fan grill desgn, ie: MESH, that stuff will make your fans sound like a rocket and block inward airflow, cut it out with a dremel and fit a simple wire fan grill, they are the best. i dont know why they use this horrible mesh shit it destroys airflow literally. pcs are easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner set on blow.

Any case that doesnt have fans on top is a waste of money unless you mod it yourself, to get hot air out the back the fan has to work twice as hard, 1 fan on the top pulling out will do a better job than two on the back

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #620

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #617

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There is nothing that is a certainty when it comes to case airflow what works best for one may not for another. My suggestions are based on a lot of different configurations I've tried even with knowledge in thermodynamics theres still a lot you need to simply try to see which scenario works best in your specific conditions and almost always the best solution is not something you will find in a textbook. ;o) As is the case for me I've customised everything in my system down to the smallest detail the benefit is I have a modular system I can move around easily while its almost as quiet as a full water system (literally the loudest fan is a 120mm rear intake which in and of itself is still whisper quiet) without the inconvenience of extremely high maintenance requirements of a full water loop or the inability to be able to move the system without draining everything while still maintaining temps that are well within acceptable levels (eg; while gaming I never see my CPU over 40c or my GPU over 60c). Regards push vs pull in every test I have ran I always found pull to be inferior to push on average anywhere between 2c and 7c. The most useless configuration is setting something up to have both push and pull configurations often I've found that component only dropped in temp by a very small amount while noise levels doubled. If you are fortunate enough to have a case where you can mount a 240mm rad above and "outside" of the case then you might want to try a push and pull configuration as it'll have the most benefit by being able to more quickly get exhausting hot air up and away from the system itself. That might not be the best explanation its something much easir shown in a diagram.

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I still like my case (Coolermaster CM690 III), but there are a few aspects about it where you can now see that newer ones have made some design improvements. I'll play around with the push vs pull when I have to work on the system anyway. I think that, considering that I have dust filters on my intakes, cleaning the radiator in a push configuration will also not be too much work. Once in a while I check what cases are on offer, but so far I haven't found one I'd like to replace my current one.

Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #618

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Yes but with push pull both the fans are running at less than half the speed making the whole system silent, and getting the heat away from the rad much quicker

having just "pull" is a waste of time as the fan has to be set nearly full speed to drag the hot air out of the radiator, no matter what system ive ever built i have always done push/pull simply because of noise and i always got cooler temps, and ive always run them at 7v, you can get 7v from any power supply if you dont have a fan controller, +12v - -5v = +7v simply connect to red and yellow (or both ends) of a 4 pin molex plug.

remember heat rises it doesnt go downwards, so any case fan at the bottom of a case should be pushing inwards not out, but if you do this make sure there are no restrictions in the fan grill desgn, ie: MESH, that stuff will make your fans sound like a rocket and block inward airflow, cut it out with a dremel and fit a simple wire fan grill, they are the best. i dont know why they use this horrible mesh shit it destroys airflow literally. pcs are easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner set on blow.

Any case that doesnt have fans on top is a waste of money unless you mod it yourself, to get hot air out the back the fan has to work twice as hard, 1 fan on the top pulling out will do a better job than two on the back

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Unfortunately I can only go from what I can read online, so it is a surprise that it makes such a large difference for you, but I don't think I have the space in my case anyway to accommodate another layer of fans above the motherboard.

I only started doing minor mods recently, and so far they are all completely reversible, so I don't want to start cutting holes just yet ;-). Considering we have 3 cats, I think it is safer for me to keep the dust filters. It is surprising how much stuff they catch, and I don't want to end up having to clean all that from my radiator, even more so if I end up going for a push configuration.

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Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #618

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Yes but with push pull both the fans are running at less than half the speed making the whole system silent, and getting the heat away from the rad much quicker

having just "pull" is a waste of time as the fan has to be set nearly full speed to drag the hot air out of the radiator, no matter what system ive ever built i have always done push/pull simply because of noise and i always got cooler temps, and ive always run them at 7v, you can get 7v from any power supply if you dont have a fan controller, +12v - -5v = +7v simply connect to red and yellow (or both ends) of a 4 pin molex plug.

remember heat rises it doesnt go downwards, so any case fan at the bottom of a case should be pushing inwards not out, but if you do this make sure there are no restrictions in the fan grill desgn, ie: MESH, that stuff will make your fans sound like a rocket and block inward airflow, cut it out with a dremel and fit a simple wire fan grill, they are the best. i dont know why they use this horrible mesh shit it destroys airflow literally. pcs are easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner set on blow.

Any case that doesnt have fans on top is a waste of money unless you mod it yourself, to get hot air out the back the fan has to work twice as hard, 1 fan on the top pulling out will do a better job than two on the back

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Zitat von Net7 im Beitrag #619

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Been using the GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI with my Ryzen 1600x since it launched (the board, not the 1600x :D).

Any love it can get, it needs, ive posted in the Gigabyte "forum" and put in tickets... deaf ears...

I keep going through modules and sending update requests when they are out of date :D supposed im evil...

Saw the GA-AB350N-Gaming mentioned once but didn't see any reply regarding.


No worries if its not worthy of your love :P

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Thank you for your work.

Im using the F23d bios for the Gaming 5

Thing is my tower 900 case will hold 20 fans, thats right 20! but the case is the size of a fridge and it cools just as good as one too lol, it does depend on case design this is why i rarely go for mid sized towers, i have always found them to be cramped and airflow impedance by silly front glass panels with no vents doesnt help either. having a case with a lot of breathing room works wonders for cooling. thi is why i can overclock with the fans set to silent, also the cpu watercooling in these is separated from the gpu dropping temps even further.

Zitat von ket im Beitrag #621

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Due to many people making sacrificial offerings (CPUs, memory kits, the blood of virgins, that kind of thing) to the PC gods in exchange for something, anything, for their AB350N Gaming boards the PC gods have decided to take pity on the people and have conjured up this one off offering; AB350N F23d-M

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Hello, first of all let me thank you for your excellent work.

I'm currently using the infamous Gigabyte AB350 Gaming (sigh), I saw you discontinuned your support for that board and of course I get your reason.

I'd like to know if the last supported bios you modded (F22b) exposes a LLC menu for my board because i flashed it but i could not find it? (Is it actually supported by my motherboard?)

Thank You

Zitat von KoldFire im Beitrag #625

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Hello, first of all let me thank you for your excellent work.

I'm currently using the infamous Gigabyte AB350 Gaming (sigh), I saw you discontinuned your support for that board and of course I get your reason.

I'd like to know if the last supported bios you modded (F22b) exposes a LLC menu for my board because i flashed it but i could not find it? (Is it actually supported by my motherboard?)

Thank You

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Zitat von Net7 im Beitrag #624

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #621

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Due to many people making sacrificial offerings (CPUs, memory kits, the blood of virgins, that kind of thing) to the PC gods in exchange for something, anything, for their AB350N Gaming boards the PC gods have decided to take pity on the people and have conjured up this one off offering; AB350N F23d-M

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BUHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAA.... I didn't like you when I first read the post... I laughed at work loud enough my team looked at me funny... also, I couldn't log in to say THAAAANNNNKKKKKK YOOUUUUUUU!
I am planning on getting a 2nd one of these its so rock solid so this, this is great!


Ya ever come to San Antonio TX, I will buy you a beer, or pour you a shot, choice is yours (as long as your 21+!)

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Thank You very much for your reply!

I suspected it, also you are totally right: Gigabyte has fallen (in my opinion) in products quality and customers support.

Well, I think I will stick with your last relase (Thank You ^^) for a very loooong time (probably forever).

Have a nice day :)

Zitat von AndreDVJ im Beitrag #604

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Well my K7 board stopped misbehaving with F23d firmware.

I essentially flashed back to F7a, then F23d.

So far my board isn't crapping itself anymore.

Stuff doesn't make sense, even to me, but it's reality.

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A lot of trouble here with the 23d firmware. Same config as 22d and after Windows login I am getting a kernel or driver fail and reboot the system. Three reboot and then the same situation. Sometimes Windows load but after some testing the blue screen come back.

Ket will be nice to get a mini tutorial with a basic config to get stable the system.

Thank you so much Ket.

Zitat von @JSebastian im Beitrag #628

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Zitat von AndreDVJ im Beitrag #604

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Well my K7 board stopped misbehaving with F23d firmware.

I essentially flashed back to F7a, then F23d.

So far my board isn't crapping itself anymore.

Stuff doesn't make sense, even to me, but it's reality.

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F23d downloaded from GB and Aorus sites screw everything up!!! Aida64/HWInfo64 both don't detect BIOS, Chipset, Fans some temp sensors AND AMD GOP | FastBoot are broken again as in past GB Firmware... @ket 's modded firmware don't cause these issues... Maybe GB should just put ket on retainer and pay him... I mean he's already doing their work for them...

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