Just been having a mess around on my taichi tonight, this board is fucking incredible! havent had a lot of time lately with house renovation but i tell you what i bloody love this thing,

Experimenting with my 3466xmp corsair vengeance rgb ram got it memtest passed at 3466mhz in under 22 minutes! with 56.2ns latency and 23.2 GB/s bandwidth and 1.385v, and im still going! this thing impresses me more and more everytime i mess about with it, not even my mates £290 asus board can match its speed he maxes his exact same corsiar ram out at 21.6gb/sec and 58.8ns and 1.41v latency so there goes, this is indeed the one to buy guys. its running fast as lightning damn theyre good motheboards.

I feel sorry for these gigabyte owners though, the post prior to mine proves what a piece of dogshite they are churning out

Zitat von redrain85 im Beitrag #600

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Well, I just had the most bizarre experience.

Long ago, I flashed ket's modded F7b to the Main BIOS and left the Backup BIOS on the factory default of F3. I also left the BIOS mode switch in Dual BIOS mode, again the factory default.

When the Main BIOS decided to corrupt itself several months ago, the board automatically switched to the Backup BIOS. Then, just to make sure I was flashing the correct BIOS, I toggled the BIOS switch back and forth between Backup and Main. I made sure the LED indicator showed Main before I re-flashed F7b.


Not too long ago, I decided to set the BIOS mode switch on the K7 to Single BIOS mode in position 2 as a safety precaution. (At least I hope that's right, because I question whether or not the manual is actually correct.) And I've always had the Main BIOS selected for boot, in BIOS switch position 1.

A few days ago, I flashed the Main BIOS with ket's modded F22b. Then, I thought, I'd switch to the Backup BIOS and flash F7b as a safe BIOS to fall back on. To my surprise, the Backup already contained F7b. Hmm. So I guess back when I re-flashed F7b to the Main, and still had Dual BIOS mode enabled, at some point it copied F7b to the Backup and replaced the factory F3. Not happy about that, but okay. Whatever.


Then, yesterday, I noticed the board was suddenly booting up with BIOS F7b. WTF?!

I decided to flick the BIOS switch from position 1 (Main BIOS) to position 2 (Backup BIOS). And what did I get? F22b!

In other words, the board randomly decided to swap BIOSes. I checked the BIOS LED indicator and, yes, it showed Main BIOS was active with F7b. I flicked the switch to Backup, and it was active with F22b.

So I switched back to Main, and flashed it with ket's modded F23d. The Backup still contains F22b, when it should have been F7b.


I'm at a loss for words, here. This should never, ever happen. NEVER! I'm really regretting buying this board. This will be my first, and last, Gigabyte motherboard.

So, bottom line, is that the board seems to have arbitrarily decided to reverse the behaviour of the BIOS selection switch. Selecting Main now sets Backup, and selecting Backup now sets Main. Even though the LED indicators show otherwise.


P.S. On this F23d BIOS, the POST code indicator is frequently changing codes after boot. It usually shows 33, but sometimes 35, and sometimes D3. With prior BIOSes, it would always be a steady 40 unless you restarted, and then it would change to 24. Don't know what to make of this, but it's strange behaviour.

Oh, and just to make it clear: I know these issues have nothing to do with you, ket. You're doing your best to fix Gigabyte's fuck-ups, and we all appreciate it! Your modded BIOSes are far better than the originals.

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Zitat von POE_UK im Beitrag #602

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Mate theyre complete dogshit arent they? i will never in a million years recommend any gigabyte product to a friend only an enemy, they are fucking awful. also note their intel boards and graphics cards are just as bad, only thing i can recommend to you sir is sell it before it totally fucks up like mine did, and destroyed a cpu along the way.

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Well my K7 board stopped misbehaving with F23d firmware.

I essentially flashed back to F7a, then F23d.

So far my board isn't crapping itself anymore.

Stuff doesn't make sense, even to me, but it's reality.

For anyone that hasn't done so I really would recommend you switch the board to single ROM mode, flash the board with modded F23d, power down, flip the switch then update to modded F23d on the alternate ROM chip. A lot of problems do seem to stem from the board being in dual BIOS mode, its most likely a mismatching firmware problem but GB are utterly useless at fixing their own firmware problems theres only so much I can fix with the tools I have but by and large the issue is with GB R&D not having a feking clue WTF they are doing a chimp with a railroad spike jammed through their brain would be a step up. F23d is an improvement of pretty much any other firmware update but it is by far not good enough and the improvements are on AMDs side not GBs. I'm confident the situation will likely improve from this point onward but I have given the Gaming 5 countless chances to show it can be good over the space of just over a year and its just not happening. If you are stuck with a GB board use the modded firmware its your best bet but otherwise ditch the board GB have absolutely no clue what they are doing. Just today I went back to the GT7 after giving the GB board WAY more chances than I have ever given any other board and I do not regret it one iota. I'll still make modded firmware for those less fortunate but GB are not a brand you should ever go with or recommend to anyone (not even your mortal enemy) ever. Go with Asrock or Asus, they are the people that have the most things in hand certainly far more than GB. As GB won't listen to complaints the only way you can make them listen is through your wallet; Don't buy the crap they are peddling.

I have set my board in single BIOS mode since F22. The backup BIOS has F22 in case I get a 2700X and the main BIOS craps on itself as I won't be able to flash F7a with that CPU.

My K7 board seems stable for now. I ran AIDA64's stress test for two hours, no issues found. I plan to leave overnight just to iron out remaining issues.

I agree the only way is to make them listen through our wallets, by not buying Gigabyte crap. While their hardware is good (or looks good), software is always crap. I don't know what the hell they are thinking. They think hardware with good looks and a zillion power phases is enough. Shitty software can't control good hardware. and will do horrors with it.

AndreDVJ,

The mediocre performance and build quality of gigabytes comedy boards is criminal, ive never known anyone to make boards this bad in nearly 30 years, my first serious home board was a QDI Legend with an intel pentium III 866Mhz and its still working after all these years! before this i only ever used 80486 machines but anyhoo, if you are unlucky enough you will find the dual bios functionality itself gets overridden with corrupted code causing an unbootable board after a shutdown throwing an error on the led readout, theres no warning it can happen at any time.

Zitat von ket im Beitrag #595

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #594

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #593

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Check that the pump is at 100% they are inaudible so theres no reason not to let them run 100% really. I'd also consider tipping the rad a few times there might be a trapped air bubble impeding the flow.

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The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don't think I can mount it anywhere else though.

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I'd need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can't hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I've reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.

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Is there anyway you can check the pump block for blockages on the cpu cooling plate? (fins) that cooler should be a massive improvement over the stock cooler, can these be re-filled? if the standard boxed cooler hits 3.75GHz yours should easily hit over 4GHz, im seeing a lot of people online changing the rads on these to a 3x120 after having a quick browse.

but even with a 2x120 rad they have over twice the cooling surface of the boxed cooler they should perform pretty good. have you tried push/pull fans?

if the radiator is getting hot its got a coolant restriction/slight blockage somewhere

Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #608

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #595

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #594

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #593

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Check that the pump is at 100% they are inaudible so theres no reason not to let them run 100% really. I'd also consider tipping the rad a few times there might be a trapped air bubble impeding the flow.

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The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don't think I can mount it anywhere else though.

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I'd need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can't hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I've reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.

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Here is a view of my PC:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P8wrab...PwUFUPtaYKG1Muz

Bottom and front fans are intake. Rear and top fans are exhaust. The fans on the radiator are above the radiator in pull configuration. I removed the dust filter on the top a while ago, so it is just a grill now, which improved the temperatures.

I am running a test now with Prime95. The CPU temperature hovers at around 74C, the water at around 36C, and ambient temperature is in the low twenties.

I googled a bit, and it doesn't seem uncommon for people to hear the pump (it sounds the same as in this video, without the weird rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foMis4DTzEQ). I get a speed feedback in Corsair Link and AIDA64, so it is running as far as I can tell (and I can hear it obviously). One review I googled that used the H100i V2 got around 65C on it while on load, but I think that was before the temperature offset was removed/changed, since using the standard cooler, it failed at around 75C, and mine fails at around 85C.

Maybe I should also mention I replaced the standard fans that came with the H100i V2 with Corsair ML120 fans, but from what I read I think they should give similar performance...

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I like to take a minute and say thanks for everything ket you have done a great job i gave up on my gaming k7 cause of gb and got an asus board and new 2700x

Zitat von AndreDVJ im Beitrag #606

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I have set my board in single BIOS mode since F22. The backup BIOS has F22 in case I get a 2700X and the main BIOS craps on itself as I won't be able to flash F7a with that CPU.

My K7 board seems stable for now. I ran AIDA64's stress test for two hours, no issues found. I plan to leave overnight just to iron out remaining issues.

I agree the only way is to make them listen through our wallets, by not buying Gigabyte crap. While their hardware is good (or looks good), software is always crap. I don't know what the hell they are thinking. They think hardware with good looks and a zillion power phases is enough. Shitty software can't control good hardware. and will do horrors with it.

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Zitat von xrelic im Beitrag #611

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I like to take a minute and say thanks for everything ket you have done a great job i gave up on my gaming k7 cause of gb and got an asus board and new 2700x

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #610

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #608

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #595

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Zitat von Mach5 im Beitrag #594

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #593

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Check that the pump is at 100% they are inaudible so theres no reason not to let them run 100% really. I'd also consider tipping the rad a few times there might be a trapped air bubble impeding the flow.

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The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don't think I can mount it anywhere else though.

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I'd need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can't hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I've reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.

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Here is a view of my PC:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P8wrab...PwUFUPtaYKG1Muz

Bottom and front fans are intake. Rear and top fans are exhaust. The fans on the radiator are above the radiator in pull configuration. I removed the dust filter on the top a while ago, so it is just a grill now, which improved the temperatures.

I am running a test now with Prime95. The CPU temperature hovers at around 74C, the water at around 36C, and ambient temperature is in the low twenties.

I googled a bit, and it doesn't seem uncommon for people to hear the pump (it sounds the same as in this video, without the weird rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foMis4DTzEQ). I get a speed feedback in Corsair Link and AIDA64, so it is running as far as I can tell (and I can hear it obviously). One review I googled that used the H100i V2 got around 65C on it while on load, but I think that was before the temperature offset was removed/changed, since using the standard cooler, it failed at around 75C, and mine fails at around 85C.

Maybe I should also mention I replaced the standard fans that came with the H100i V2 with Corsair ML120 fans, but from what I read I think they should give similar performance...

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Inadequate fans will have a dramatic effect on the cooling capacity of the AIO. High CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) is not the same as a high static pressure. For use with rads the higher the static pressure the better. That strange rattle you mention is a sign the pump bearings are / have worn out if ever I heard it as well. Regards the fan layout of your system if it were me the front and rear fans I would make intake fans, this would allow you to remove the fans over the VRMs. I'd also flip the PSU "upside down" as it would then allow it to benefit from a constant fresh supply of air in the case as well as having the PSU fan double as an exhaust fan. That setup would allow you to remove the fan next to the PSU as well. If you haven't already I would also mount the AIO rad fans on the underside so they are directly blowing over the AIO rad this will give the benefit of a continuous fresh air supply from the rear intake fan while also having the advantage of the AIO rad fans directly blowing over the rad and immediately exhausting any heat while the AIO rad fans would also double as two more exhaust fans for any heat within the system that makes it up that far. I'll attach a pic in case what I'm saying there isn't totally clear.

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Zitat von ket im Beitrag #613

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Zitat von xrelic im Beitrag #611

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I like to take a minute and say thanks for everything ket you have done a great job i gave up on my gaming k7 cause of gb and got an asus board and new 2700x

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No problem. I'm certainly enjoying the GT7 a lot more than the Gaming 5 ;) The GT7 isn't perfect but it's a lot better than the G5 and the few issues it does have with the firmware I can quite easily fix (modded version will be available soon).

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