Zitat von Phoenix48 im Beitrag #15

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I tried to test it by enabling the cool and quiet feature and see if it is downclocking at any point but it doesn't seems to do so. I have a FX-8150 so i can safely say that it is not an issue for only your CPU. Beyond that, i can only guess that it is probably a problem caused by the latest AMD AGESA OrochiPI v1.5.0.7. If you absolutely need this feature to work, i would suggest to simply change this module in the BIOS and replace it by either the v1.5.0.2 that you can find in the original Formula Z BIOS version or the v1.5.0.0 in the original Formula BIOS. That should probably fix your issue.

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Download links on first post was updated to offer the option of downloading a BIOS version with AMD AGESA OrochiPI v1.5.0.2 to (hopefully) fix the Cool and Quiet issue for those who need it.

Phoenix48
Does your BIOS support the Opteron 3280?
I'm surprised, but with your BIOS AMD AGESA OrochiPI v1.5.0.7 the quality of sound and image has increased.

Would be great if it supported nvme, m.2 with pcie adapter. cant get my ssd bootable on offizial rom

Zitat von amd9 im Beitrag #18

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Phoenix48
Does your BIOS support the Opteron 3280?
I'm surprised, but with your BIOS AMD AGESA OrochiPI v1.5.0.7 the quality of sound and image has increased.

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Zitat von Endgame im Beitrag #19

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Would be great if it supported nvme, m.2 with pcie adapter. cant get my ssd bootable on offizial rom

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Zitat von Endgame im Beitrag #19

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Would be great if it supported nvme, m.2 with pcie adapter. cant get my ssd bootable on offizial rom

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Just flashed the Bios and everything is working great. Used the version with Cool & Quite Issues, because I dont use that anyway. Booting works fine, finally can use my SSD without using USB Boot first. I also tried to increase my OC and it seems that the new Bios is Stable at higher clock then before(Still testing). Had the 1703 from 2012 (non modded) before. Thanks alot.

BIOS updated to v5.

Changelog:

[Changed] OROM LAN Intel Boot Agent GE v1.5.83 -----> v1.5.84

I just found this post with your modded ROM's. Im amazed anyone is still working on them but i am totally excited. I installed your rom and it has helped over the 1203 that i originallly had. My only request is if you can add a lower minimum and maximum degree on the optional CPU fan settings. it wont go any lower than 25c or 60c on the max and min sides. My issue is i purchased a server fan for occasions that i want to bench the computer but the internal temperature never reaches 60c even though the CPU does.

I also would like the PCIE support to install an NVRAM SSD. I was going to do that this christmas but i guess ill hold off if it doesnt work at the moment.

THanks
Mike

@ang1dust

Unfortunately, i don't know how to change the internal code for those temperature settings in the BIOS. Also, i don't know if this apply to your situation but those optional fan settings are controlled by the readings of optional thermal sensor cables, one 2 pin sensor cable for each optional fan settings. If you don't have those sensor cables installed, then any temp settings that you set there are not used at all because they don't read the CPU temp or anything at all, they use only the temp of the thermal sensor cable associated with it if the cable is installed and the temp at the exact spot where you installed the sensor of the cable. Up to 3 optional 2 pin thermal sensor cables can be installed on the Crosshair Formula and they didn't come with the motherboard, they are optional and must be bought separately. If you need more infos on this, look at the #6 of the diagram in the motherboard manual.

As for SSD over PCIe support, it should work without any problem with my BIOS because i already added the 2 rom modules to support it (See first post: [Added]). If you take a look from post #19 to #23, you can see that it was tested and successfully used to boot directly from a SSD over PCIe.

Great Info, i have the box in the attic, i will pull it and install the sensors. As for the PCIE SSE, thats awesome! I will buy a drive on the next discount i find and install it.

so the computer runs great with your bios but for some reason it has been failing to post. I lowered my overclock to stock settings and it will still fail to post. If i force it into safe mode it runs just fine (in safe mode post ) but if i make any changes to the processor it has a chance of not posting. Depending on the aggressive nature of the overclock depends on how hard it is to post. Once its up...it doesnt crash, it passes prim95 for over an hour. Im not sure whats wrong. It is an older power supply that might be the issue but i thought i would ask here first. Also, i attemted to go back to the original 1703 and it said the file is incorrect. A little help? :)

Thought i would add my details i am runnin amd phenom II x 4 965 at 280FSB x 14.5 = 4.073Ghz, memory running at 1866 (this motherboard max) and HT / NB 2000mhz (i have been able to run it at 2200 2500 and even 2800 and it runs)

@ang1dust

I don't have a phenomII x4 to overclock so i can't say if anything is wrong with your numbers or not, but i will assume those are normal for overclocking that. Even then, i can say you are righ about the memory at 1866mhz and can confirm to you that i run my memory at that same number without any problems.

With that said, you didn't said what is your power supply but i suspect it may be the power supply that is at fault because i don't have any problems with my Bios and other users seems to be fine with it too.

Maybe one of your settings in the bios is causing this instability at startup. I guess it is not impossible. Review them all carefully one by one. If it is not the cause then you probably come back to your power supply...

I usually recommend at least a 1200 watts power supply for a modern PC. The reason is that a power supply always works at its best at half power. So a 1200 watts would have more stable current at an average usage of 600 watts. It is also always more efficient at half power too, so it consume and cost less to operate in the long run. The quality of the power supply also matter because the cheap ones provides a current that fluctuates too much and is not stable at all by modern standards. That last fact can pass undetected for a long time on a PC on normal operations (and can kill the PC in the long run) but when overclocking comes into play, this default often come to haunt a PC very fast. It comes even faster into view when a power supply reach its upper end of its capacity instead of half of it like it is supposed to be.

My advices: First, the quantity: Verify to be sure your PC is using around half of its power supply capacity in watts. 2/3 can pass but 3/4 is usually way too much depending on the levels of high peaks in watts you do with your PC. And second, the quality: Make a research on the net about your power supply to be sure it has good capacitors in it and that it has a good regulation system to control and correct the current fluctuations. If not, the current your PC receive may not be of a good enough quality or stability to overclock too much. Also, even if it had respectable capacitors in it, if the power supply is too old, the capacitors may be getting old too and not be able to run as efficiently as they used to be. The same apply to the regulator system. A last comment on this is that some old power supply had no real current regulator mechanism in them, this means that any electricity fluctuation comming from the electricity company was almost completely passed on directly into the PC... It is harder to get a high stable overclock in those conditions.

As a last resort, you can also try to test your power supply with the free "OCCT" software that you can download at "ocbase dot com" but I AM WARNING YOU: This program can usually test the max of a power supply, or at least the max your PC can draw from it if it is less than the power supply capacity, and this test is very well known to be able to kill PERMANENTLY any power supply of a bad quality or even a good one with a default in it. DON'T DO THIS TEST IF you still need to keep your power supply and/or can't replace it right away. Even if a power supply survive this test, it doesn't automatically mean that the power supply is perfect. If i remember right, you can look for unusual spikes in the current graphics produced by the software to pin point clues that the current is not stable.

Hope this can help you.

Your response is well documented, i applaud you. For starters, i am running a 600w psu. It is quite an old Antec psu. I dropped the memory down to 1666 and it posts more often, 50/50 chance it will post after leaving it off overnight (i just reset and it will post). I calculated the wattage of my connected items to be as follows:
Phenom II x4 965 120w
Asus Nvidia 1060 120w
SSD Maybe 4w?
Gskill 8g (4x2) Dunno?
Crosshair Not sure what a motherboard uses in wattage

so on a safe side 300? i have a few fans lets say 350 on a 600? Im going to talk to my neighbor, hes an electrician and see if he has one of those power measuring devices.

edit: the beep codes actually equate to the video card not posting. If that helps. Otherwise ill post when i measure load when it turns on and so forth.

Thanks again.